North Bali : The Untapped Treasure

The twin lake of Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan

I would never guessed, an adventure on a yellow jeep named “Itchy Pu**y” in North Bali has made me fall head over heels with this part of the island. I loved it so much that I moved from the lively Seminyak 2 years ago to a beachfront home in a quiet little village here in North Bali. With reference to the name of the jeep, it is indeed true that is exactly what it’s called. We found it online from a car rental company called Bali Jeep and thought it would be fun driving it across Bali! 

North Bali boasts magnificent natural beauty, sacred temples not known to visitors, phenomenal sunrise, volcano trek adventures and wondrous waterfalls. 

The thrill of chasing waterfalls, jumping off 20m cliffs into crystal clear rivers, trekking active volcanoes, spotting dolphins and embracing the beauty of nature North Bali has to offer will fix your cravings for off the beaten path Bali.

North Bali retains its quietness and peacefulness, still untouched by massive tourism. Yes, it is a long drive to get here (at least 3 hours from the airport) but the journey itself is so picturesque. It is where you find the raw and rural Bali. 

Check out our road trip on this sexy yellow Jeep here

Here are some of North Bali’s best, still under the tourists radar. I have attached some little secrets and tips that you will never find in any other Bali travel guide. Carry on reading and you will know which ones….

Click on the bold letters in this article to get some details. 

SEKUMPUL WATERFALL

With water cascading from a mighty 80m high, these waterfalls surrounded by lush forests look like a scene from Avatar. It is definitely the most beautiful waterfall in Bali.  

There’s a cluster of 3 waterfalls at Sekumpul; Hidden, Fiji and Sekumpul. Each of these waterfall is about 15-20 minutes walks between each other. The trek to the waterfalls is rather arduous and steep. You will however be rewarded with phenomenal views of Bali’s best waterfalls. It is a very beautiful trek. Walking through lush forests and with tree vines hanging on sections that make you feel like you’re entering The Lost World, crossing crystal clear streams and feeling the spray of the mammoth sized falls every now and then. It is exciting as you get closer and closer to the waterfalls. 

Take your time, go for a swim in the refreshingly cold turquoise lagoon, have a little picnic and enjoy the spray of the magnificent falls on your skin! It is very relaxing, in fact, therapeutic. 

Entrance fee is required and you’ll be given a guide for the entire trip around the waterfalls. Some are very good photographers too!

TIP: Wear sensible footwear as some of the areas can be slippery. You’ll have to cross streams, so a ‘Teeva’ kind of good grip sandals or even trainers will do the job. 

ALING-ALING WATERFALL

Famed for its cliff jumping and waterfall sliding actions, this is the perfect destination for adventure seekers. From a tiny 5 metre drop for younger children up to 20 metre killer stunts for the adrenaline junkies, a trip to Aling Aling will surely make your heart jump! 

I made it, jumping from the 10m drop, challenged by my young children who were cheerleading “Mummy, Mummy….” from the bottom of the falls! My sons really keep me on my toes! Well, they keep me young at heart!

The walk from the carpark to Aling Aling Waterfall is relatively easy, depending on your fitness level of course. There’s a steep set of steps to get to the waterfall. It is indeed a picturesque hike through the forests. 

There’s a lovely cafe half way up to the start of the trek. It was great having a celebratory Bintang after my big 10m jump. Well, I was celebrating the fact that my bikinis stayed intact even after the jump!

EXPLORE MUNDUK

If you long for the cool climes or want to get away from Bali heat, then Munduk is the place to be. To describe how cold it could be, my Alpine Swiss partner (and an avid snowboarder) was in jumpers and socks when we were glamping in Munduk! LOL!

Munduk is Bali’s best kept secret. It is tucked away in a village, surrounded by lush forests, cascading waterfalls, coffee plantations and rice fields. The stunning twin lakes, Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan are located in Munduk too.  

Munduk has some of the most incredible bamboo houses and glamping sites in Bali. Remote and romantic, this is a great place for a couple’s getaway. It is also a perfect spot to escape the buzzing Ubud and the south of Bali.

I met a few backpackers when I was there, on a yoga and meditation retreat. 

We stayed at a gorgeous glamping site called Ekommunity Bali. They feature unique glamping experience and their glamping sites are all blessed with spectacular views. Great spot for healthy food and vegan options too. 

You could trek to the Munduk and Melanting Waterfalls directly from Ekommunity.

 

The twin lakes are barely 10 mins drive from Ekommunity. Head there early-ish as the lakes are absolutely stunning under the morning sun. 

My only advice is if you’re driving to Munduk, regardless whether on a scooter or in a car, just be mindful. It sometimes can be very foggy in the evenings and visibility could be less than 10m. So, heading there earlier is my better suggestion.

CLIMB MT BATUR

Epic sunrise, stunning views and fascinating forests, add Mt Batur to your Bali bucket list and thank me later! 

Geologists believe that Mt Batur sits in a super volcano that used to be 3500 metres above sea level. A huge eruption over 25000 years ago took a huge chunk of the volcano which collapsed into a chamber. Now Mt Batur still stands handsomely at 1700m. This hole is now filled with Danau Batur (Lake Batur)

Mt Batur is an active volcano, last erupted between 1999-2000. 

I would consider the trek to Mt Batur as moderate.  You could get there within 45 minutes from the start of the climb if you’re fit. My 14 year old son and I did it within that time frame when we went there recently. 

The hardest part about trekking this volcano is starting the trek as early as 3am to catch the sunrise. Well, you don’t need to if you’re not bothered climbing with 200 other trekkers! I did the sunrise climb for the first time many years ago but skipped the sunrise on my second trip there. 

It was a total bliss having the peak all to ourselves at 7am! I could enjoy my coffee in peace and didn’t have to fight for that 1 best spot for photos with hundreds others. 

The views climbing down to the base was spectacular. We chose a different route down the mountain, took our time admiring the beautiful forests and random temples in the middle of nowhere. 

You can hop on dirt bikes if you’re tired. For IDR300k, the locals will zoom you down the mountains without any hardship!

A local guide is required to trek up the mountain. There are companies that offer pick-up and drop-off from your locations and their cost includes a guide. I didn’t do that. I just spent an hour on Google searching for a local independent guide and paid half the price than the published ones on the internet! 

Check out my post on Mt Batur HERE for more epic photos and posts on this spectacular volcano. 

Here’s some quick facts about Mt Batur: 

  • Distance: 3 – 5 km (2-3 miles) return
  • Elevation Gain: 500 m (1,650 feet)
  • Top Elevation: 1,717 meters (5,633 feet)
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Duration: 2 – 4 hours return

ENJOY THE INSTAGRAMMABLE CAFES IN KINTAMANI

Blessed with mind-blowing backdrops of Mt Agung, Mt Batur, Mt Abang and Lake Batur, the cafes in Kintamani are now becoming a hit that travellers would drive from 2 hours away just for coffee or breakfast with a view! Perhaps even just for the grams!

These cafes along the main Kintamani strip serve beautifully presented meals and drinks. You’ll be clicking 20 shots for just a plate of food and drinks with edible flowers and garnishes carefully carved in shapes of hearts and cuddly animals! 

I’ve been to a few. Paperhills by far is my favourite, for the variety and quality of food they serve. My son said they serve one of the best Belgian waffles he’s ever had. At the age of 14, he’s travelled to 22 countries and the love he has for waffles and crepes made him order these dishes even for lunch or dinner over the years of travelling. I had an amazing salad that consists of the healthiest condiments you could ever think of. Sadly, my salad never made it to my photo gallery as I was starving when we got to Paperhills after climbing Mt Batur!

Montana Del Cafe, Eko Bike Kintamani and any of those along the Kintamani road have spectacular views and great coffee. Trust me, you won’t go wrong. They’re all good for the grams. Just don’t forget to live the moment, enjoy the views while sipping through your coffee or even Bintang for that matter!

WANDER THROUGH JATILUWIH RICE FIELDS

Jatiluwih offers spectacular views of its rural area farming communities. The green and golden landscape as far as your eyes could see is so soothing for the eyes. They looked like beautifully crafted patterns crawling uphill leading you up to the skies. A walk around these picturesque rice terraces is absolutely breathtaking. 

Spanned across 600 hectares of land, Jatiluwih still maintains the traditional water irrigation systems dating back from the 9th century. This area is rural Bali at its best. 

Jatiluwih is still under the tourists radar. The accessibility of this region keeps the Kuta and Canggu crowd away. Make sure you make your way there before the next Bali swing is built!

I apologise I didn’t have any photos of Jatiluwih to share. To be brutally honest with you, I used my DSLR camera when I was there and unfortunately that camera was stolen. No photos for me to treasure for this off the beaten track destination, but, the amazing greens and gold of Jatiluwih are still fresh in my mind until today.

I’m the kind of writer who doesn’t upload photos from Google on my blog. What I have here on my blog are all my own collection that I took during my travels.

LOVINA

Lovina, best known for its dolphin tours, is a low key beach destination. It has a charming feel of old Bali. People here are genuinely nice and friendly. 

The beaches aren’t crowded at all and you can actually enjoy your cocktails on bean bags with sand between your toes or read on your sun beds without getting hassled by persistent sarong sellers.

Kayaking, paddle boarding, snorkelling and diving are some of the activities you could do around Lovina other than trips to watch the dolphins at sunrise.

Magnificent sunsets too!

Sunset Lovina Beach

DINE AT THE 10TH TABLE

This is a must when in North Bali. If you’re a foodie and enjoy the true fine culinary experience, then you ought to visit The 10th Table. The  casual and yet elegant ambience, backed up by artistically presented high quality food combined with efficient service by the warm and hospitable Balinese staff made me think that this ought to be on the Top 10 things to do in North Bali. 

You’ll find it hard to believe, a small seaside town like Lovina serves escargot and steak tartare equally good, if not better than the ones I’ve had on my countless visits to Paris. 

You can opt for wine pairing and dégustation menu or go for the a la carte, whatever takes your fancy. 

Don’t worry, when I say fine dining, you’re not expected to turn up suited and booted at this restaurant. It is fairly casual, but with such sophisticated dining experience you shall never forget. The owner will charm you with the highest level of hospitality you’ll find it hard to experience elsewhere. 

Their Sunday brunch, OMG, is to die for! This has to be on your Sunday thing to do if you happen to be in Lovina on a weekend. The seafood or meat platter served in a humongous round plate, laced with tasty homemade dips, pâté, freshly baked bread, olives and cheese will make you drool. Book in advance on weekends and festive seasons.

 SWING BY AIR SANIH AND ITS LOCALITY

Google Bali and I guarantee you will never find Air Sanih as a tourist destination. This is because it isn’t touristy at all. I knew it because I live here, splitting my time between Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and Bali.

Air Sanih is truly special. It is a village that is so Bali. The locals here lead a slow-paced life, in harmony. Everyone is friendly and hospitable. It is here that you could have the entire 1.5 km stretch of beach and the ocean to yourself. The sea is so calm and crystal clear, especially in the morning that it looked almost like a lake. At times it is so still it reminded me of waking-up in the middle of Doubtful Sounds in New Zealand. You’ll find it hard to believe.  Doesn’t sound like Bali does it? 

Click HERE and you’ll find out what I mean….

Warung Pesisi – Spacious, good food and stunning views

Swing by Warung Pesisi on your way to Lovina or en route back. This stunning open air restaurant is located right on the seafront with magnificent views of the Bali Sea. Food here is authentic and only fresh produce are used in their cooking. I remember craving Sate Lilit (Balinese fish satay) one day and the wonderful cook I call Ibu Cening refused to make any unless she has fresh barracuda. Fresh in her eyes meaning newly caught barracudas, not even 24 hours old! 

Pack your swimmers, there are sun beds and a lovely hut available for use and you can hang out at this restaurant for the day. There is also a freshwater shower near the restaurant for you to rinse after a swim in the ocean.

A beach bonfire is a must when stay in Air Sanih for the night. The local children would be very happy helping you find the wood and help you set up a bonfire if you need some help. All you have to do is just ask.

There are a few accommodations to choose from in this village. They’re lovely, mostly with traditional Balinese feel, wrapped with Western comfort.

My ultra favourite is Villa Mojito. This simple beach bungalow is barely 50m from the shoreline. After spending almost 2 years living here, I struggled to find anywhere similar for the feel that I have for this place.

Villa Madja- Tucked away in a tiny village in Air Sanih

Villa Madja in the village, a mere 5 minutes walk from the sea front is my other favourite. Spectacular 2 bedroom villa with a huge pool and a massive garden which will blow your mind. We usually move there for our little staycation, to get a bit of a village feel! 

If you want to experience the authentic Bali way of life, spend a few days here. Your “Selamat Pagi” (Good Morning in bahasa Indonesia) or “Apa khabar?” (how are you) can take you a long way. Kick football with the local children on the beach. The next thing you know they’ll be out spearfishing and invite you for their afternoon beach bonfire or to their local ceremony! And this could be a trip of a lifetime! So, you now know why I don’t rely on the Top Things for places I travel to? The memories you would carve in your heart experiencing the local way of life would be much more valuable and meaningful. Well, at least that’s just the way I look at travelling.

All of these factors combined with lots others I may want to share in my blog in future made Air Sanih super special. I could rave endlessly about this village; the natural beauty and its people. The locals here treat my family with respect, like their very own.

Being able to witness sunrise and sunsets from the same spot in my garden is also another reason I find it hard not to love this tiny paradise on earth. Can you name anywhere you’ve been where you could witness sunrise and sunsets from the same chair? I do! It’s where I call home 🙂

A morning walk through the village witnessing the locals kick-start their day, women walking with a straight posture better than Kate Moss even with with 3kg loads on their heads, children running around aimlessly, birds chirping and the sun shining through the coconut trees will surely leave you smiling. There’s something so magical about this village by the sea. It is here that I have that freedom to never worry about my belongings. I could leave my bungalow without locking my doors or windows. The world can be safe, kind and fascinating. There’s so much negativity and prejudice especially after the pandemic that can lead us to instability in life. The feeling of complete freedom and trust to me are so valuable that even the best views and the world’s most Instagrammable spots can never beat.

My children’s favourite part of Bali!

North Bali is truly magical. Take your time, embrace the beauty of everything it has to offer, spend a week or so on this part of Bali and you will understand what I mean. Some people came and never left…..

Sunrise At Villa Mojito

If you like this article, you may want to check out more of my travel tales on my Instagram HERE

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