It’s hard to imagine a place more like a winter fairy tale than Ginzan Onsen. As you step into this small town cradled by snow-covered mountains, it feels as though you’ve travelled back in time. Wooden ryokans line the streets, their warm glow reflecting on the icy river that snakes through the town. Originally a bustling silver mining town over 400 years ago, Ginzan Onsen has since transformed into a serene retreat, famed for its hot springs and storybook charm.
Our trip to this quaint town came about unexpectedly, thanks to a minor snowboarding mishap. Picture this, I was gracefully shredding down the slopes (or so I thought) when a skier lost control. In an effort to avoid a collision, I veered up the side of the slope, fell, and twisted my ankle.
Now, I’m fine. The legendary onsen waters did their job. I was back riding the snow monsters at Zao Onsen the very next day, because when your son is bursting with excitement to hit the slopes, a mum’s gotta do what a mum’s gotta do! Adrenaline works wonders for pain management anyway! LOL!
A Picture-Perfect Arrival
We arrived in Ginzan Onsen during one of the heavy snowfalls. The town was blanketed in pure white, with snowflakes swirling down in a mesmerising dance. It is one of those moments that instantly steals your breath, the kind of beauty that no photo or description can truly capture.
We warmed up with one of the best bowls of soba I’ve ever tasted, paired with a bit of sake for me (not my son!). The hot, flavourful broth was exactly what we needed to fight off the chill as snow continued to pile up outside. Ginzan Onsen truly knows how to turn even a simple meal into an unforgettable experience.
Amid the winter wonderland, my son had his first taste of how far people will go for a great photos and videos. Despite the freezing -8 degrees temperature, there they were, ladies posing in micro-mini skirts on a bed of snow! His wide-eyed disbelief made me laugh, and I couldn’t resist saying, “People would do anything for the ’gram’!” It was a lighthearted moment that set the tone for our adventure in Ginzan Onsen, a place where even the most unexpected quirks become part of its charm.
The Healing Waters
Ginzan Onsen is famous for its onsen, but on this visit, we didn’t take a dip. Instead, we wandered through the picturesque town, enveloped by heavy snowfall. The scene was like something from a winter postcard, and our walk ended at a beautiful waterfall. With the snow-covered trees framing the scene, the waterfall looked almost magical against the white backdrop. The beauty of the place was breathtaking.
The narrow alleys of Ginzan Onsen are lined with charming souvenir shops. My dear son absolutely loved the local soba, so we brought home a few packets to enjoy. As for me, I couldn’t resist picking up a couple of fridge magnets, my usual travel tradition! One unique keepsake I found particularly delightful was the Maneki-neko figurine. Known for its unusually large paws, this beckoning cat is believed to bring wealth and makes for a truly charming memento of Ginzan Onsen.
While strolling through Ginzan Onsen, be sure to sample local desserts which are readily available in local shops and cafes:
- Zunda Daifuku: A local twist on the traditional daifuku, this treat features sweetened mashed soybeans (zunda) are wrapped in soft mochi.
- Kujira-mochi: Known as the oldest mochi dessert in Yamagata Prefecture, Kujira-mochi translates to “long-lasting rice cake.” It’s a traditional sweet that captures the essence of the area’s confectionery heritage.
- Dadacha Bean Pastries: Originating from Tsuruoka city in Yamagata, Dadacha beans are esteemed as the “king of edamame.” Its rich aroma and flavour are incorporated into various pastries, making for a unique and tasty souvenir.
- Karinto Manju: Unlike the typical steamed manju, Karinto Manju is fried, resulting in a crispy exterior and a soft, sweet red bean paste filling. Enjoying these fresh and hot is a must.
- Additionally, keep an eye out for seasonal specialties like Sakura Daifuku in the spring, offering flavours that reflect the region’s culinary traditions.
A Memorable New Year’s Eve
Our departure from Ginzan Onsen was just as unforgettable as our time there. It was New Year’s Eve, and we celebrated the occasion in the quirkiest way possible, on a bus, with burgers and fries! That was the only food outlet open at the station. We were the only ones on the bus, and it felt like a private little party as we rang in the new year.
We stepped off the bus into the heavy snowfall, facing the biting –8°C cold. Armed with transparent umbrellas to shield us from the blinding snowflakes, we trudged back to the ryokan. It was freezing, but the experience was nothing short of magical. My son and I both fell asleep before 10pm that night, exhausted but happy, with memories of Ginzan Onsen etched in our hearts.
Practical Tips for Travellers
If you’re planning a trip to Ginzan Onsen, here’s what you need to know:
- Getting There: The town is a bit remote, it is almost 5 hours journey from the heart of Tokyo. So plan your journey carefully. From Tokyo, take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Oishida Station, and then hop on a bus to Ginzan Onsen. Trust me, the effort is worth it.
- When to Go: Winter is the best time to visit if you’re after those dreamy snow-covered scenes, but remember, it’s cold, so pack accordingly.
- Stay in a Ryokan: To fully immerse yourself in the experience, book a stay at one of the traditional ryokans. They’ll treat you to incredible hospitality, complete with kaiseki meals and, of course, private onsen baths.
- Safety in Winter: In mid-winter, avoid walking under roofs, trees, or electric cables covered with snow. We spotted a tourist getting hit by a massive lump of fallen snow. It’s not something you want to experience! Also, the pavements are icy and slippery, so make sure to wear proper footwear.
- Witnessing the Gas Lighting: Due to the influx of tourists, travellers who wish to stay past 4:30 pm to witness the enchanting gas lamps being lit must register in advance. Check the latest updates on local travel advisories or the official Ginzan Onsen website.
- New Year is the biggest celebration for the Japanese. They often spend New Year’s even and New Year’s day with families and close friends. Shops often closed early. Some closed over the holiday period. Schedule for public transportations especially in smaller towns change due to this as well. So make sure you plan your travels accordingly. I ended up having to get a taxi to the train station on the 2nd of January as there were no buses running earlier in the morning.
Why Ginzan Onsen
First, it is beautiful beyond words, especially in a heavy snowfall as in the video here . Ginzan Onsen is where history, natural beauty, and a touch of adventure come together in a way that is uniquely Japanese. Whether you’re soaking in the healing waters, strolling through the snow-dusted streets, it is a place that stays with you long after you leave. Let me know when if you visit Ginazan Onsen and don’t forget to send a postcard from its bright red post box!
