TACKLING THE LAND OF THE EXTREMES
Mongolia is one of the world’s last undiscovered destinations dominated by sparsely populated steppes and semi desert. It is the perfect unplugged destination where you can experience wide open expanses of fenceless grassland, eternal blue skies, evenings strewn with countless stars, forests, deserts, crystal clear rivers and lakes and the warm hospitality of the traditional nomads. It is a land of adventure where you will feel total freedom in trust when you’re welcomed with open arms in the homes of the nomadic families with a simple knock on the door.
Mongolia is truly a wonderful surprise for me. As an intrepid traveller, there may be no greater thrill than exploring a destination untouched by tourism. It is unexplored out in the wilderness that I could almost picture Genghis Khan galloping his horse across the steppes.
I travelled with my 2 young children for 12 days in a hired four wheel drive with a driver through central Mongolia covering almost 3000km in distance, camped under star studded skies and stayed with the local nomads on most nights. Our driver, Barght did a fantastic job driving through treacherous routes, irregular terrain and temperamental skies without any navigation nor signposts, but just relied on “Mongolian GPS”, the horizon. Perhaps also with the help of some ridges and cues from yurts.
FACTS ABOUT MONGOLIA
Mongolia is landlocked in Central Asia, bordered by China and Russia. It was once the heartland of the Mongol Empire founded by the greatest conqueror of the world, Genghis Khan, who majestically extended his empire from the Sea of Japan to the Hungarian plains.
The national capital, Ulaanbaatar is known as the coldest capital city in the world. It is bitterly cold in the winter and the temperature dropped to -40 degrees Celsius. This city is highly visited mid-summer every year during the Naadam Festival, a celebration of the Mongolian Revolution and Independence.
The Mongolians are regarded as the best horsemen on earth. Back in the 13th century, Genghis Khan had the horses to thank to establish his empire. Horses remain the vital daily aspect for the locals until today.
KEEP IN MIND
Planning a trip to Mongolia can be a challenging task, but totally worthwhile. You can’t just rock up the country, swing by a travel agent and hop on a tour. A careful planning is required. With a bit of guidance, it will be an obtainable travel destination.
The following are some of my favourite aspects of traditional Mongolian culture and wilderness that shouldn’t be missed….. Even if you are going to get a little lost in order to find them!
STAY WITH A NOMADIC FAMILY IN A YURT
You’ll be drawn to the enticing soul of the nomadic families.
Inside a traditional yurt, 15 years old Ulzii served us fermented milk (known as Airag) and yak milk pastry. Ulzii proudly introduced herself, her friends and the number of sheep and goats her family owns. Her parents were away and she was back at the family yurt, on a school holiday with her friends. She cooked us a delicious Mongolian stew.
This seemed to be a norm in Mongolia; You could knock on someone’s door and be welcomed into their homes. It was real and unscripted, unlike other well-organised home visits. You can get beautiful insight of the local culture. I admire this spirit of trustworthy and warm hospitality, the culture that is long gone anywhere else in the world.
With a history of over a thousand years, yurt is like a tiny circular studio apartment, made of wood lashed together with layers of felt and canvas. Everything is fitted in this small dwelling- a kitchen, beds, shrine and living room and sometimes a TV. Easy to erect and dismantle, the yurt, its furnishings, and the stove inside can be carried by just three camels, or wagons pulled by yaks making it ideal for the nomadic way of life. The average yurt is small but spacious enough to provide adequate living space for a family, is wind resistant, and has good ventilation. Toilet, which is generally a hole in the ground are outside.
We had an unforgettable time staying with Ulzii and her friends. My children taught them the flossing dance, a popular way of dancing amongst children, made BBQ marshmallows and threw frisbees. They ran around aimlessly through the ever lasting gardens. I had a chance to take the four wheel drive for a spin through the open steppe. A 15 year old teenager rolled in his 1970s motorbike and offered me to ride it across the fenceless grounds. I took the offer without hesitation of course! We wrapped up the evening dancing to Mongolian music and staring at the sky erupted by a billion shimmering stars and the milky way soared above our heads. Sometimes the greatest memories are made in the most unlikely places, proving that spontaneity is more rewarding than meticulously planned life.
The experience of staying with the local nomads to me is possibly the biggest highlight of Mongolia. The camaraderie of sharing a yurt, the beautiful surrounding, the authenticity and romanticism of the experience, more than hardship is truly memorable.
If you prefer an experience without getting too much out of your comfort zone, then you may opt for tourists yurt, often equipped with basic needs like toilets and showers.
GOBI DESERT
Beautiful silky blue skies that stretched seamlessly across my vision, flat lands to dunes to mountains with sunsets that blew my mind apart from double hump camels rummaging aimlessly…. These are the images of Gobi Desert that is carved in my mind. Gobi Desert is unbelievably beautiful. The 7 hour journey across bumpy roads to witness the stunning beauty of this largest desert is in Asia was totally worthwhile.
We visited the Flaming Red Cliff enroute to Gobi. In 1920, a famous American palaeontologist unearthed fossils and eggs of 100 dinosaurs aged over 70million years ago. My little Indiana Jones roamed around the cliffs with hope to find a teeny weeny bone.
4 days around Gobi was perfect; body- boarding down the sand dunes endlessly, witnessing the magnificent sunset from the singing dunes of Khongoryn Els and riding the Mongolian famous double hump camels.
BAGA GAZYRN CHULUU
Arriving here is like landing on Mars. This area studded with rock formations worshipped by the locals because Genghis Khan camped here before journeying to the Gobi Desert. We stopped here for a picnic and my mind went wild imagining the eco- warrior camping in the exact area over 700 years ago.
YOL VALLEY
Famous for its dramatic rocky cliffs and icy canyons, this valley remains lush and green despite being in the heart of Gobi Desert. It is a unique destination for hikers. Ibexes roam in the gorges in warmer climes. We hiked through the canyons spotting ‘peekaboos’, little squirrels that truly enjoyed playing hide abs seek with visitors They were uber cute, we had fun looking out for them through the rocks.
MONGOLIA OUGHT TO BE ON YOUR TRAVEL RADAR
While the nature is expansive, it’s the lifestyle here in Mongolia that left me in awe. There is an unbridled freedom in the way of living. If you’re keen on travelling to somewhere so removed from the rest of the world, a non-touristy destination that’s filled with abundance of nature, quiet, unforgettable night skies, fenceless spaces, having eagles and vultures soar overhead, Mongolia is definitely for you. It’ll make you feel like you’re in a totally different planet.
