Tajikistan for me is an adventure of a lifetime, filled with exhilarating experiences, breathtaking landscapes, and heartwarming encounters with the local people, particularly the children whose smiles still warm my heart.
Buzkashi – The Thrill of The Wild
My trip to Tajikistan started with a slight detour. First it snowed heavily in the mountains so I had to stay the night in a village with Toychi’s family. The next day, it kicked off with Toychi’s car needing a repair, so we went to his friend’s workshop to get it fixed. While we waited, I became an unexpected curiosity. Locals would stop, smile, and ask where I’m from, which is a standard question. But the following question often cracks me up. “One (asking if am I travelling alone)? Husband?” I would laugh it off but I could see the confusion. In a place like Tajikistan, it is not common to see women rolling solo, it is as rare as it would snow in the Sahara!
Later, as we drove past a small village near Toychi’s home, I noticed a few horses just roaming the street. I asked Toychi if the locals ride horses here for fun on Sundays. Toychi, in his usual laid-back manner, replied, “Buzkashi.” And that was it. No further explanation, just buzkashi. So I pushed a bit, “Can we watch?” He nodded, and we kept driving.
Suddenly, we were in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by hills. And then, out of nowhere, hundreds of people appeared, sitting on a slope, fixated on the game. I got out of the car, and the staring started. Friendly nods, a few smiles, but I was definitely the odd one out – one lone foreign woman among a sea of men, all deeply invested in this wild, chaotic sport. It was like stepping into a completely different world. And honestly, I kind of loved it.
About Buzkashi
Buzkashi is often described as polo but with a dead goat. It is a wild adrenaline pumping horse-racing competition that has been part of the region’s culture for centuries
In Tajikistan, there is no team in the game. It is every individual for themselves. There were at least a hundred riders when I was there. Imagine a scene straight out of an epic movie where hundreds of horsemen, or chapandaz, racing across rugged terrain, each fighting to grab a goat carcass, also known as kokpar and bring it across to the finish line. None of these horsemen wore any safety helmets, nor sat on a saddle. Chapandazan wields whips, not only to maintain control over their horses but also to fend off opponents and protect the kokpar..
The intensity of the game, the thunder of hooves, and the shouts of the spectators create an atmosphere that is chaotic and mesmerising. The prizes range from a selection of live goats/sheep through household items or even a motorbike!
Buzkashi is a display of skill, strength, and sheer willpower. The game reflects the tough spirit of the Tajik people, forgotten by centuries of survival in one of the harshest environments on earth. Watching this game was like stepping back in time, leaving me in awe of the culture and the people who continue to keep this ancient sport alive.
Haft Kul – The Seven Lakes
As if Buzkashi wasn’t enough to stir my soul, the adventure took me deeper into the wild beauty of the Fann Mountains, where the legendary Seven Lakes, or Haft Kul awaits. A deep gorge created by Shing River holds seven breathtaking alpine lakes with absolutely stunning views. These lakes are the crown jewels of Tajikistan, each one a dazzling shade of blue or green, reflecting the sky and the surrounding mountains and rugged peaks.
Haft Kul is about two hours from Panjakent, and at least another six hours is required just to explore this hidden gem. Reaching the lakes is an adventure in itself. While it is possible to trek the entire route, the rugged, rubbled paths make it a fair challenge. I opted for a bumpy ride with Toychi in his ancient Pajero. The drive was nerve-wracking at times, with no proper roads, just rocky paths hugging the cliffside and a sheer drop to the right. At times we were stuck in traffic of donkeys carrying goods! It was a scene straight from a storybook, heart-pounding real!
The journey through the lakes is magical. The first lake, Nezhigon, which translates as eyelash because of its curved shape. The turquoise colour of this lake is so vibrant, created by the minerals in the waters. Each lake after that had its own unique charm. Soya, means shade, because apparently it is never in complete sunlight. Hushyor and Nofin with a lively turquoise, with its glass-like clarity.
It is hard to not want to constantly stop as you drive along to take photos of various angles. Just when you think you have enough shots, the road to the next lake will go up a steep series of hairpin turns and you get another incredible vista from the top.
On a whim (and in true adventure spirit), I took a dip in one of these glacier lakes, the fourth lake, Nofin. I braved the icy waters in my t-shirt and knickers, because, why not?! The shock of the cold water was invigorating, reminding me of the raw power of nature in these untouched landscapes. I’m grateful for the Hollywood film producer who was also staying at Toychi’s guest house who took a video of the unforgettable moment.
The road that takes me past the fifth lake, which was so small I almost missed it.
I continued on foot to Merguzor lake. There’s no access for cars, so Toychi had to drop me off at the start of the trek.
Halfway through my trek, I bumped into a man and his donkey. He offered to take me the rest of the way on his donkey. Naturally, I accepted. Riding through the surreal landscape, occasionally passing me on horseback or donkeys carrying goods, it felt as if I’ve been transported into a scene from Game of Thrones. The rugged beauty, the snowy paths and snow capped mountains, the sense of isolation, and the untouched wilderness made every moment feel like part of an epic adventure.
When I finally reached Marguzor, I was awestruck by its peaceful beauty. Framed by towering peaks, the clear waters reflected the majesty of the mountains, a perfect finale to the journey,
Unfortunately, I didn’t make it to the seventh lake. It has been snowing and Toychi advised me not to trek there because of the slippery path and concerns of landslides.
A Unforgettable Night in the Fann Mountains
One of the most memorable aspects of my journey was the night I spent in Toychi’s mountain guest house, a simple home in the Fann Mountains. The night when I was there in early April, the temperatures dropped to bone chilling two degrees, no electricity which meant no heater and the toilet was outside the house, and literally a hole in the ground. This experience was far beyond my comfort zone. It was challenging.
Curled up at night in layers of clothing, I shivered through the night, hoping I would make it through the night without a visit to the toilet! The moment of truth, nature called at 2 am, and I had to brave the freezing cold and pitch darkness to find my way to the outdoor toilet. This experience made me appreciate the basic comfort of an ensuite bathroom and the availability of running water!
Despite the cold and challenges, staying at Toychi’s guest house was an unforgettable experience. The warmth of the locals, the friendly assalamualaikum with a big smile, and the beauty of the surroundings made it all worthwhile. Sharing this adventure with a Hollywood film producer and his best friend who was writing an autobiography about him added an unexpected twist to my journey. You will never know who you will meet in the most remote corners of the world!
At 6 am the next morning, we gathered next to the fire where the kettle was boiling for breakfast, all set to start our journey exploring Haft-Kul.
It was an amazing start, stopping at a local school, saying hello to about twenty children, all excited to meet us foreigners and asking for photos!
Lake Alexander
In Persian, Alexander the Great is called Iskandar, Kul means lake in Tajik, so Iskandarkul means Alexander Lake. Historically, it is not certain if Alexander has been there, but local people believe he did and that his favourite horse, Bucephalus drowned in this lake.
The lake sits at an altitude of 2,195 metres. It is 70 metres deep and has a surface area of 2.4 square kilometres. Alexander Lake apparently appears indifferent colours due to the high mineral content and the reflection of light on the surface of the water.
There are some holiday homes and chalets around the lake that open in the summer. On the west end of the lake is the President’s residence. It doesn’t look flashy at all, but has a helipad!
Lake Alexander is a pristine body of water, surrounded by towering peaks and untouched by the modern world. The silence here is profound, broken only by the sound of the wind whispering through the trees and the occasional call of a mountain bird. It’s a place where time stands still, allowing you to truly connect with the natural world around you.
Lake Alexander Waterfall
Not far from the lake is a trail that will take you to Iskandarkul Waterfall. There are no signs, I just hiked along the river until I spotted the viewing platform of the waterfall. The view however is partially obstructed by the cliff. Nevertheless it was beautiful from the platform and the sound of the gushing water from underneath the metal floor can be scary!
Sarytag, located at the base of Mount Sarytag, not far from Iskandarkul is a village known among hikers around the Fann Mountains. There are traditional mud homes in this village, which add a unique touch to the place. A beautiful river flows right by the village, making it a pleasant and peaceful spot for a walk. It is a simple quiet village and a great spot to explore the Fann Mountains area.
The Heart of Tajikistan – Its People and Children
The Heart of Tajikistan: Its People and Children
Tajikistan is not just about breathtaking views and thrilling adventures; it is about the warm-spirited hearts of its people, especially the children. These young souls, often seen joyfully riding their donkeys or walking beside them as they carry goods, are the true treasures of the highlands. Their smiles, their curiosity, and their resilience are what truly captured my heart.
I’ll never forget the day a young cheeky girl joined me on a trek. I walked past her, and greeted her with assalamualaikum. The next thing I knew, she must have walked a good kilometre with me! She doesn’t speak a word of English. We were humming to a Tajik song while walking together.
On another trek, I stumbled upon a tiny school nestled in the valleys of the Fann Mountains. A friendly wave and a moment of curiosity led me inside, where I ended up giving an impromptu English lesson! The warmth and enthusiasm of the teacher and students made me feel incredibly welcome, turning a simple visit into a deeply memorable experience.
These moments with the children of Tajikistan felt worlds away from the hustle of civilization. They revealed pure joy and contentment in simple lives, reminding me that language is no barrier when hearts are open. Every little interaction was an opportunity to leave lasting imprints on each other’s lives. To the Tajiks and their wonderful children, I owe a debt of gratitude for enriching my journey. Your spirit and resilience continue to inspire me.
A Journey To Remember
Tajikistan is a land of contrasts, where ruggedness of the mountains meets the warmth of its people, where thrilling adventures blend with moments of deep connection. It is a place that challenges you, humbles you, and ultimately leaves you with memories that last a lifetime. My journey through Tajikistan was more than just a trip. It was a reminder of the beauty of the world, the kindness of strangers, and the power of human spirit.
