Tajikistan – An Adventure to the Unknown

We live in a time when many spectacular places around the world are plagued by over-tourism and travellers are alienating local communities instead of supporting them. Well, Tajikistan is at the other end of that spectrum. Most people would have to google where exactly it sits on the map, and what its capital city is! I must confess I knew literally nothing about the country until I decided to explore Central Asia. 

Tajikistan, with awe-inspiring mountainous landscapes, warm-hearted people and off the beaten path status seems right up my alley.

About Tajikistan

Tajikistan is nestled landlocked between Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan to the north and west, China to the east and Afghanistan to the south. The capital city is Dushanbee. Tajikistan is home to some of the highest mountains in the world. Over 90% of the country is mountainous, with the towering Pamir and Fann Mountains, offering breathtaking landscapes for adventurous travellers. The Pamirs, often called ‘The Roof Of The World” boast some of the world’s highest peaks, while the Fann Mountains captivate with their stunning alpine lakes and rugged beauty.

Historically, Tajikistan was a crucial part of the ancient Silk Road, connecting East and West. Its landscape is scattered with remnants of empires and trade routes. The Pamir Highway, one of the highest roads on earth, offers a modern-day adventure, winding through these incredible mountains.

The local currency, Somoni, reflects the country’s heritage, named after Ismail Samani, a key figure in Tajik history.

How I Ended Up In Tajikistan

After one too many encounters with cranky tourists and enough ancient stones to start my own historic monument collection, I figured it was time for a change of scenery. I looked at the map and found out Panjakent in Tajikistan shares the border with Samarkand in Uzbekistan. I had read about the Seven Lakes and I thought it would be great to explore this part of the world totally new to me. Tajikistan is a blank canvas, with very limited information online, and travel companies charge arm and legs for guided tours. I wasn’t interested in a fixed itinerary or sharing a journey within a group tour. 

After persistent research, I stumbled upon a local contact number for a guest house in the mountains near the Seven Lakes. The owner, Toychi, barely spoke English and I had no idea where his homestay was as it wasn’t even on Google maps! When I mentioned to him about wanting to trek the Seven Lakes and stay in the mountains, his response was ‘No problem.’ Trust is all I have in this situation.

With a heart full of adventure and a leap of faith, I crossed the border from Samarkand to Panjakent. A quick Yandex taxi from the centre of Samarkand to the border cost about 190 Uzbek Som. Crossing the border itself was surprisingly easy, barely 800 metre walk between the two checkpoints. 

I started my journey into the heart of this country with no pre-determined plans.

The owner of the homestay, Toychi, greeted me at the Panjakant border in his ancient and rusty Pajero. Just before I got into the car, he casually mentioned that it has been snowing in the mountains and it is not safe to drive there on that day. He suggested I stay in his village with his family instead. Would you trust a total stranger and accept his invitation, in a totally foreign country with no mobile phone signal and no way of contacting the outside world? Well I did! I was running entirely on my gut instinct. Sometimes, you have to throw caution to the wind and embrace the unknown. And at that moment, I couldn’t ask for a better plan.

I was welcomed into Toychi’s family home with open arms, quite literally. As soon as I stepped out of the car, his wife, three children and even grandchildren gathered around to greet me with warm hugs, making me feel like a long-lost family.

My room was simple, just a mattress on the floor, with no frills or fancy comforts, yet the entire house radiated warmth that money can’t buy. 

That evening, we gathered around to share iftar, the breaking of fast of Ramadan as a family. Despite meeting these wonderful people for barely two hours and with language barriers that made our conversations impossible, we connected in ways that words alone could never achieve. It was more than a meal, it was a moment that reminded me that true hospitality transcends language and culture. 

Tajikistan was not just an adventure into the unknown. It was an experience that reminded me of the kindness that exists in the most unexpected places. Sometimes the best journeys are the ones where plans fall apart, and you trust the road to take you somewhere beautiful.